Henry Scott's cooking up a storm in his eponymous, unpretentious, fine dining restaurant in Bath for meat eaters, vegans and veggies alike
On that little run called Saville Row, in between George Street and the Royal Circus, Royal Crescent and other roads of fine Georgian architecture, to the north of Milsom Street in Bath.
Henry’s signature is on the sign outside the unprepossessing two-storey Georgian townhouse and he’s created a genuine restaurant which is something of a personal statement. The interior with its wooden floors and tables and cool blue/greys is modern and understated.
A relaxed, friendly vibe, you feel instantly at home yet know you are in the capable hands of an ambitious young professional. Henry is from Warminster originally and has travelled extensively studying under the masters and honing his culinary skills before returning to his West Country roots.
SCOFF & QUAFF
Henry’s offers a seasonal classic menu with a choice of dishes that can be enjoyed a la carte or as a four-course tasting experience. We decided to go for the latter with Henry’s selection (don’t you love it when someone else can make those difficult decisions for you?). Adjustments can be made for food preferences. Veggies and vegans are given equal attention to meat eaters here, with a full vegan menu that celebrates sustainable plant-based food without sacrificing taste or experience.
The entree of a roasted golden beetroot on a blue cheese curd with a sesame seed crisp was as good as it looked. We savoured the creamy curd (a mere 24 hours in the preparation) with some delicious light and nutty sour dough bread.
Cornish crab with mooli radish, coriander and yuzu (an citrus fruit) was a stunning starter that married the fresh taste of the crab with the warm Asian flavours of yuzu, coriander and peppery radish.
Perfectly seared and tender duck with celeriac puree and fig was a lovely rich wintery main dish.
For dessert, a warm chocolate tart with melt-in-the mouth Sichuan custard housed in the thinnest and crispiest of pastries. Intense, not-too-dark, not-too-sweet chocolate combines perfectly with the custard, again an interesting Asian note to an otherwise classic dish which takes it into another dimension. There are several diners who come to Henry’s purely for this dish and it has been a perennial favourite since it landed on the menu. We now include ourselves amongst that number.
Booze? Peach Bellini (perfectly judged sweetness) and a Wiper & True creamy stout to whet our appetites. With the savoury courses: Zollo Riesling, Chateau Ste Michelle, Columbia Valley Washington (2016) and Chianti Natio, Organic, Cecchi, Tuscany, Italy (2016). With dessert: Recioto dela Valpolicella, Valpatena, Baterni (2015).
OUT & ABOUT
Some of Bath’s best shops on Bartlett Street right opposite, including concept store The Loft, women’s fashion at Sassy & Boo, incredible vintage and designer lighting at Felix Lighting and Toast. The Museum of East Asian Art, the only UK museum dedicated to the arts and culture of East and South East Asia, is round the corner.
Good for: Fine, imaginative, seasonal lunch and dinner for everyone, whatever your food preferences. Talent spotters: Henry is a chef who is going places. Food critic Jay Rayner loves Henry’s.
Not for: Sunday lunch (it’s closed; Mondays too), kids or people who want fast food or huge portions.
The damage: Not the cheapest but well worth it. The 4-course tasting menu / vegetarian tasting menu £50. A la carte: starters £8-£8.50; mains £23-£28; desserts £8-£9.
Open Tues to Sat 12pm –2pm and 6pm –9pm.
Henry’s, 4 Savile Row, Bath BA1 2QP. Tel 01225 78055. henrysrestaurantbath.com
Photos Rick Foulsham.