Everything a country pub should be and more: incredible food, great atmos, glorious countryside setting. But it’s the attention to detail that makes The Cotley Inn an extra special place to eat, stay – in their newly refurbed former stables – or simply have a pint with friends, admiring the magical location.

WHAT? WHERE?

The Cotley Inn lies deep in the folds of the Blackdown Hills in the village of Wambrook, on the Cotley Estate near Chard and close to the Somerset/Devon border. Maddie and Ben pride themselves on welcoming locals as well as visitors from further afield to share this special place, which they’ve lovingly restored and improved over the last four years, garnering a clutch of awards – Estrella Damm Top 100 Gastropub, 1 AA rosette, Taste of the West Gold and Visit England’s Best Pub in 2022, no less – along the way.

THE VIBE

Surrounded by verdant hills, the setting is enchanting, summoning up an English countryside from simpler times. Inside and out, it’s quintessential West Country pub – stone walls, woodburners, beams, wooden floors – with relaxed, friendly service and a buzzy atmosphere.

You can have a drink, relax on a sofa and play pub games in a central bar area.

A stuffed moose, affectionately known as ‘Randy’ and a reminder of the days when Maddie and Ben lived and worked in the Canadian Rockies, looks down on proceedings from one of the walls and a wild boar chum looks on from another.

The long interior space extends to the left and right in a series of inter-connected elegantly decorated rooms where you can dine. We sat in the recently converted skittle alley with scrubbed wooden floors (still bearing the marks of the skittles). Contemporary rustic styling abounds, with warm lighting, wooden tables and fresh flowers.

The lovely sunny terrace with parasols surrounded by lavender and herbs is perfect for sunny days.

Who says you need to go to Provence?

The lawns below are spacious and oh, so very, very green.

SCOFF & QUAFF

First, a rhubarb and ginger gin cocktail which was, as the bar woman said, ‘a very nice tipple’, and a pint of IPA to whet our whistles.

Ben and Maddie strive to be as sustainable as possible. Beef, lamb and venison all come from the Cotley Estate; head Chef Dan (who worked with MasterChef winner Mat Follas) is a firm advocate of the ‘nose to tail’ principle where none of the animal goes to waste; and ‘food miles’ here are actually ‘food metres’. Ruby red Devon cattle graze in the field opposite the pub, they have their own pigs in the paddock next to the car park and seasonal greens, herbs and more come directly from their extensive kitchen garden.

So let’s get down to the food. For starters, we had lightly whipped Applewood smoked goat’s cheese with grilled Cotley garden vegetables, black garlic and crispy herbs – which were sublime – served with lovely fresh bread and olive oil with balsamic.

Perfectly pan-seared, crisp and juicy Paignton scallops and chorizo arancini with puttanesca, sun blushed tomatoes and scallop roe velouté was beautifully cooked.

For mains, we had the prawn, chilli and garlic stuffed Cornish plaice with samphire, courgette pappardelle, lime and elderflower mayonnaise (you could really taste the elderflower), sweet potato and coconut puree, and sesame polenta – all superb. Each ingredient complemented the fish with exactly the right balance of sweet, salty and acidic flavours.

Peppered Holsworthy pork tenderloin, slow roasted pork belly, with maple and walnut glazed squash, wilted chard, rhubarb brown sauce and sage and onion jus was tender, delicious and cooked with a fine attention to detail and an obvious mastery of familiar and new flavour combinations. The accompanying truffle and parmesan chips were irresistible, with a lovely thin crispy skin and yielding potato inside.

There’s a good selection of real ales, Somerset ciders and a decent wine list. We had the recommended Domaine Luquet 2018 Pouilly-Fuisse, which was a delicate and characterful accompaniment to the fish with lovely bold, floral notes.

For dessert, we choose a delicious Somerset strawberry parfait and fluffy Genoise sponge with vanilla butter cream and fragrant lemon verbena, and a creamy Pavlova with tonka bean Chantilly, blueberry and apple compote. Both perfect.

STAY

Four boutique-style accommodations, each with double rooms and en suite bathrooms, are in the recently converted Grade II-listed former stables to the side of the pub.

We were in The Holt, with its own private entrance, patio area and sun loungers – and nest of swallows in the porch!

The light and airy living room is stylishly decorated with cowhide rug on bleached wooden floors, a big comfy sofa bed (great for kids), a vintage leather armchair, Nespresso machine, flat screen TV and contemporary art by local artist Marie Blake on the wall.

Also on the ground floor, a bathroom has a walk-in rain shower, fluffy white towels, waffle robes and our favourite Bramley products.

Up the stairs (which illuminate as you ascend) is the bedroom, with a super comfy king-sized bed, goose down feather pillows and duvet, Egyptian cotton sheets, and a luxurious roll top bath tub. A Roberts radio and one of those clever air multiplier thingies which circulate the ambient air around the room, ensuring a good night’s sleep (it works), are nice touches.

The help-yourself-buffet breakfast the next morning is a joy to behold and taste, with freshly made juices, croissants, granola, fresh fruit, yoghurt, homemade jams, smoked salmon and Serrano ham.

You can boil your own, freshly laid Cotley hen eggs (natch), in the simmering egg poacher on the side.

Just how we like it!

All in all, it’s a very relaxed, delicious and unfussy breakfast experience. Tea, coffee and fresh milk – delivered to your doorstep – are provided but don’t expect a full English or anything cooked to order.

DOG-FRIENDLY

Bow-wow-wow! Dogs are allowed in the pub and in two of the rooms, The Holt and The Den, and there’s a Muddy Paws Shower with Bramley Digby Dog Wash outside.

DISABILITY ACCESS

Being super old, listed barns means there’s no disabled access.

OUT & ABOUT

The glorious Blackdown Hills are right outside the door. We did a lovely circular walk from the pub to the church which took in stunning views of the local countryside while the swallows swooped around us. You’re only about half an hour’s drive to Lyme Regis and the Jurassic Coast.

THE MUDDY VERDICT

Good for: Foodies, walkers, and anyone seeking the quintessential countryside getaway. The peaceful spot makes this a perfect base for exploring the area (the Jurassic Coast is not far away) with the kids and your dog. It’s also a great pitstop on the way to Cornwall as it’s not far from the A303. If you get the train from London Waterloo, the owners will even collect you from Axminster.

Not for: Those who want bog standard pub grub although there are fairly-priced quality bar snacks (chips with pulled pork) and you can have a more traditional burger or fish and chips if you fancy (albeit with curried tartare sauce).

The damage: Very reasonable given the quality. Starters £8-£12; mains £16-£24 and desserts £6-£9. Double rooms from £115-£225. The Den and The Holt have sofa beds (great for kids); ‘dinky doubles’ The Drey and The Nest are good for couples or solo guests. The pub is currently closed Monday and Tuesday and a room-only rate is offered for Sunday and Monday nights.

The Cotley Inn, Wambrook, Chard, Somerset TA20 3EN. 01460 62348.

Photos by Rick Fouls h am

Review: The Cotley Inn, Wambrook, Somerset

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