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Muddy eats: Nosh-stalgia, Wells

Enjoy eclectic dishes inspired by ingredients from around the world in this laid back, retro-themed cafe-bar-bistro

LOCATION

Nosh-stalgia is slap bang in the middle of Wells, England’s smallest city, just off the Union Street car park – could it be any more convenient?

THE VIBE

Chilled out cafe-bar-bistro with a quirky, retro feel.

The chef and co-owner Leigh Say’s eclectic collection of vintage mirrors, signs, toys and other fascinating bits and bobs are on the walls, hanging from the ceiling and generally all around you.

Pick a hat, any hat (or fencing mask).

Relive your childhood.

Take a seat by the window.

Or at the table made from a bed of nails.

SCOFF & QUAFF

Open for breakfast, lunch/brunch, coffee and cakes as well as dinner. Like the decor, the constantly changing menu is also eclectic, reflecting Leigh’s culinary background which has taken him all over the world, from Somerset to the Far East, collecting a bunch of AA rosette certificates of merit for culinary excellence along the way. The menu focuses on fresh, seasonal produce from the West Country and beyond, so you get dishes like Exmouth mussels; cuttlefish, prawn mango and coconut linguine; Bath-reared Ashdale beefburgers; and Norwegian sea trout (which is what I had). There’s an element of retro in the menu too, so expect things like traditional beef lasagne alongside the beetroot arancini.

Working from the top of the tower down: a crispy fried poached egg (with a perfectly runny, deep yellow yolk) was perched on softly flaking Fijord sea trout gravalax, atop an Ogleshield cheese and potato rosti, and all sitting in the greenest of pea velouté. Delicious.

Desserts are moreish. The polenta, orange and almond pudding (not sickly sweet), with a aromatic rosemary syrup, ruby chocolate ice cream topped with a spectacular glass ‘flame’ made it into my Instagram feed as well a my stomach.

Good selection of booze and gold-medal-winning Anvil coffee.

ROUND ABOUT

The magnificent Wells Cathedral, The Bishop’s Palace, weekly markets, independent cinema, independent shops and galleries all within a couple of minutes’ walk should keep you busy for a while.

THE MUDDY VERDICT

Good for: Hanging out and enjoying inventive grub throughout the day in quirky, relaxed surroundings. Great place for a birthday (the tables can be moved to create an impromptu dance floor).

Not for: Don’t rock up on a Monday or Tues – it’s closed (but watch this space).

The damage: Reasonable and you’ll eat well for the money. Starters £4–£8; mains £12–£24; desserts £6–£8.

Opening hours: Weds to Sat from 9am to 3pm, and evenings subject to booking. Sun 11am – 4pm.

Nosh-stalgia, 2 Union Street, Wells, Somerset BA5 2PU. Tel 01749 670255. nosh-stalgia.weebly.com

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