THE LOWDOWN

Acclaimed chef and MasterChef:the Professionals alumnus Ayesha Kalaji serves up an extraordinary brand of Middle Eastern food, reflecting her unique Jordanian/Welsh/English heritage, in a former 17th century coaching inn turned restaurant in the heart of Glastonbury. The Queen of Cups was awarded a Michelin Bib Gourmand and shortlisted for ‘best newcomer’ at the Estrella Damm Top 100 Gastropubs in 2023, and won the Middle Eastern Food of the Year category at the BIH Spotlight Awards 2022. Not bad going when you’ve only been going since 2021.

THE VIBE

Relaxed and friendly, there was a buzzy ‘Friday night’ atmosphere; the sort of place where you just know you’re going to have a great time. The colourful décor reflects a quirky mix of old and new with scrubbed wooden floors, green painted walls with exotic birds and an eclectic selection of prints.

The kitchen pass is a central part of the dining experience, with the sound of sizzling pans, shouts and laughter and a head chef who is very much in control of her craft.

Up on the first floor, parties of up to 12 can dine in private.

Out back, you can eat and drink on a pretty terrace, accompanied by live music on Sunday afternoons. Cool.

SCOFF & QUAFF

The menu is based around small plates and sharing platters and the friendly and knowledgeable team are on hand to help you make a good selection, while you whet your whistle.

To start: ruby red, piquant Teta’s pickles (pickled turnip in beetroot juice) based on Ayesha’s 98-year-old grandmother’s own recipe. Plump green house olives garnished with rose petals. The best hummus we’ve ever tasted, with preserved lime, almonds, and a smoked tomato and date confiture. Sweet and creamy labneh (Middle Eastern soft cheese) with peaches, confit garlic and a za’atar panagrattato (toasted breadcrumbs). A Queen of Cups classic: smokey aubergine baba ganoush with tahini, brik (Tunisian pastry) and pops of sweet juicy pomegranate. Oh, and warm, freshly baked Iraqi pita to scoop it all up.

Next a selection of small plates. Braised fennel with a saffron and coriander caramel, Westcombe ricotta and smoked yeasted almonds (a new one on us). The fennel was beautifully charred on the outside and soft on the inside, with a gently spiced, treacly sweet and cheesy sauce.

Grilled Jordanian nabulsi cheese (hard ewe’s cheese) with Perisian black lime honey, preserved lemon and oregano was a wonderful sweet and sour combo.

Huge and ‘meaty’ Gazan spiced tiger prawns with arak (an aniseedy spirit) came with whipped White Lake fetish (a feta-style) cheese and preserved lemon oil. Yum.

Next up, a couple of large plates: the fish of the day from Brixton – red mullet and squid, lightly coated and perfectly cooked – with a tangy mango amba yoghurt, fennel and orange salad.

The pressed hogget with blackened aubergine, potato fondant and dukkah was tender and rich with good spicing, and nutty, smokey flavours.

They have a good selection of wines (including organic) from France, Italy and Spain, Jordan and Lebanon, and more local, like Mowbarton Estate sparkling from Wedmore and Six Brothers Glastonbury Rosé. We chose a Tete-A-Tete Terret Blanc Languedoc, France – similar to Picpoul and a lovely accompaniment to the fish – and the Loli Casada, Semi Crianza from Rioja, Spain which was soft and fruity with notes of plum. A nice accompaniment to the lamb. Both served by the glass.

We had just enough room for dessert. Jasmine pannacotta, fermented strawberries, pistachio and honey was a beautiful marriage of sweet, nutty and briny flavours.

The rich, dark chocolate cremeaux with soft peaches was sublime.

And finally, a Queen of Cups signature dish: orange blossom mahalibia (rice pudding) with apricots, sesame, fennel and sesame tuilles. Accompanied by a glass of Sauternes and a pot of fresh mint tea, it was delish.

We ate pretty much everything on the menu but it is ever changing and Ayesha strives to use seasonal and local produce wherever possible. We loved the way she incorporates Somerset cheese makers Westcombe and Whitelake into her menu. Apparently her relatives from Jordan bring suitcases of exotic spices with them whenever they visit. There’s a good range of gluten-free and vegan dishes too.

OUT & ABOUT

You’re in the middle of Glastonbury: climb the Tor; stroll around the ruins of the Abbey; visit the excellent Somerset Rural Life Museum; buy crystals, incense, candles – a book on tantric sex – from the town’s quirky independent stores.

ACCESSIBILITY

Fully accessible and inclusive. This is Glastonbury!

MUDDY VERDICT

Good for: We say this is absolute knock-out dining. Ayesha cooks from the heart and the joy translates to the food. Just go – with friends, fam or your OH – for a relaxed, sharing dining experience that takes you on a new and exciting culinary journey inspired by the Middle East. Steak nights every first and last Thursday of the month. Live music on Sunday afternoons.

Not for: Those who prefer to dine with starched white tablecloths and expressions to match.

The damage: Excellent value. Cold dishes £7-13.50. Small plates £7-9. Large plates £18.50-£22.50. Desserts £6-9. The Queen’s Feast: chef’s selection of daily dishes for the whole table (min 2 people)£34.95 pp / vegan version £33.95pp.

Queen of Cups, 10-12 Northload Street, Glastonbury, Somerset BA6 9JJ. 01458 831 255. reservations@queenofcups.co.uk

Review: Queen of Cups, Glastonbury

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