THE LOWDOWN

Located in Milborne Port, a village in south Somerset on the edge of the beautiful Blackmore Vale and very close to the Dorset border – it’s just a couple of miles east of the historic market town of Sherborne – The Clockspire restaurant was once the village school. While the outside may be all Victorian arches and stone mullioned windows, inside it’s a contemporary and rather sophisticated Michelin-listed restaurant with a swish bar, stunning, award-winning interiors and a modern British menu that’s about as far removed from school dinners as you can imagine. It’s the sister restaurant of the renowned restaurant The Woodspeen in Newbury.

PS. Don’t go looking for a harbour, the ‘port’ bit of the name denotes that the place was a ‘town’ as far back as 1249.

THE VIBE

Winner of a couple of architectural awards, and declared one of the most beautiful restaurants in England by Condé Nast Traveller, we have to say we agree; the interiors are stunning. Contemporary design enhances the original beauty of the building, with polished concrete floors, soaring eaves and vast – what look like cast iron – chandeliers, it has the feel of medieval monastery, albeit a luxurious one. Light shines down through large windows, creating soft beams and atmospheric shadows across the restaurant.

The Clockspire, Millborne Port, Somerset

When you arrive you’re taken up to a rather swish mezzanine level bar.

Perch on a velvet and leather bar stool at the marble-topped bar or sit at a table to order a Clock Tale, a glass of champagne or a G&T made with one of 10 gins or their own 12 O’Clock Gin made with secret foraged ingredients and orange leaves from the conservatory at Ven House (a Georgian mansion, and the owner’s home, nearby).

An aromatic Spire Spritz, made with Lyre’s Aperitif, peach, jasmine soda and a sprig of thyme, and glass of freshly squeezed orange juice served with little dishes of smoked almonds and chilli rice crackers, tickled the taste buds.

The restaurant is spread over the entire ground with two large seating areas, double – or even triple? – height ceilings, spectacular chandeliers, striking artworks and a huge bonsai (is that an contradiction in terms?) in the middle.

The Clockspire, Millborne Port, Somerset

The Clockspire, Millborne Port, Somerset

The Clockspire, Millborne Port, Somerset

Through the archway, a tantalising glimpse behind the scenes into the kitchen.

The Clockspire, Millborne Port, Somerset

SCOFF & QUAFF

Head chef Luke Sutton (formerly of fine dining restaurant L’Ortolan in Reading and The Woodspeen), has created a modern British/European menu that is super seasonal, local, inventive – and as good looking as the restaurant it’s served in.

Homemade sourdough, still warm from the oven and slavered with butter sprinkled with sea salt, was so delicious it was hard resist gobbling it all up before the starters arrived.

The Clockspire, Millborne Port, Somerset

From a list that included their own Clockspire gin-cured salmon and Barber’s cheddar custard with pork coppa, we chose this pair of beauties: a mound of sweet and succulent Cornish crab topped with a kohlrabi, dill, apple and spring onion salad, paired with a sourdough crumpet with crab bechamel sprinkled with crispy fried onions and sea herbs.

The Clockspire, Millborne Port, Somerset

Hidden under the super crisp sourdough crackers, nibbles of walnut, radish wild garlic foraged from grounds of Ven House was a perfectly seasoned beef tartare.

The Clockspire, Millborne Port, Somerset

For mains we chose roast cod loin (crispy skin, firm but yielding flesh, just as it should be) with cauliflower, maitake (AKA hen-of-the-woods) mushrooms and a rich and creamy yet tangy seaweed hollandaise, and this pile of barbequed celeriac with quinoa, black garlic, butter sauce split with basil oil; pickled golden raisins added delicious little bursts of sweetness.

The Clockspire, Millborne Port, Somerset

The hispi cabbage had a smokey, buttery richness and was absolutely delicious.

The Clockspire, Millborne Port, Somerset

You can choose to have you dessert back in the bar but we were settled so comfily, we decided to stay put to eat our salted but not sickly sweet caramel tart topped with a totally yummy banana sorbet and drizzled with sweetly sharp passionfruit.

The Clockspire, Millborne Port, Somerset

The smooth and creamy vanilla custard was served with buttery, crunchy hob nob crumb, Granny Smith apple cubes, intensely flavoured apple gel and apple cider sorbet – we are in Somerset, after all.

The Clockspire, Millborne Port, Somerset

To accompany ? From the many pages of wine list and on a recommendation from our waiter, we enjoyed a perfect glass of chilled Sevilen Isabey Sauvignon Blanc. Service was exceptional: quiet, efficient, friendly and not at all obsequious.

OUT & ABOUT

For a stroll around some independent shops, a 12th century ruin, Sherborne Old Castle, which was leased to Sir Walter Rayleigh, who then built a new pad in the grounds – the Elizabethan Sherborne Castle next door, or a medieval abbey, head over to Sherborne (it’s only 10 mins in the car.) Or you could just retire to the bar for a digestif.

KID FRIENDLY?

More than welcome, with a children’s menu that includes dishes like cheesy pesto flat breads, chicken goujons with broccoli and cookies and milkshake.

DOG-FRIENDLY?

Leave your pooch at home.

ACCESSIBILITY

The bar is up a steep set of steps but everywhere else is on the level.

MUDDY VERDICT

Good for: Perfect for a special meal with your OH, friends and fam. Cocktails with your gal pals. I imagine afternoon teas here would be amazing. Come for lunch, afternoon tea or dinner from Weds to Sat 12–3pm; 6-9.30pm; Sun 12–4.30pm. Jazz on the last Thursday of the month should be cool. Cocktail masterclasses and wine and dine events throughout the year.

Not for: A quick meal on the hoof – you’ll want to linger and savour.

The damage: Starters £11-21; mains £22–47; desserts and cheeses £7–£14. Wine by the glass from £5, bottles from £26.

The Clockspire, Gainsborough, Milborne Port, Somerset DT9 5BA. Tel 01963 251458. email host@theclockspire.com and make a reservation.

Review: The Clockspire, Milborne Port

You may also like