THE LOWDOWN

The recently transformed 17th century pub with rooms, The Three Horseshoes, in the pretty village of Batcombe in a valley just north of Bruton, is Somerset’s newest culinary destination. At the helm is acclaimed New Zealand chef Margot Henderson, who ran – with husband Fergus – The French House in Soho and then her own Rochelle Canteen in Shoreditch. Now she’s bringing her unpretentious, field-to-fork menu to Somerset.

THE VIBE

The walk through enchanting gardens filled with summer flowers, quietly overlooked by the impressive medieval church next door, sets the scene. Bucolic bliss, no?

Inside, we’re talking pared back but utterly tasteful country pub – open plan – with pale walls, beams, huge inglenook fireplace, flagstone floors, wooden tables, traditional Windsor chairs, fresh flowers and rustic artworks on the wall.

A fireplace has been knocked through and connects to the main dining area.

You can catch glimpses of the chefs at work.

A third private dining area can be booked for up to 26 guests (could be good if you’ve got a birthday or other celebration coming up).

And of course, there are tables on the terraces with plenty of parasols for a sunny day.

Didn’t see them on our visit but there are five ensuite rooms upstairs.

SCOFF & QUAFF

First off, a glass of St John Cremant de Limoux and pint of Otter Bitter, whilst perusing the enticing field-to-fork menu, which showcases local, seasonal summer fare – like the broad beans, artichokes and gooseberries on offer when we were there – and plenty of hearty, meaty classics including grilled ox tongue, guinea fowl and bacon pie, as well as fish. Specials included half roast duck with confit potato and Barnsley chops with chips and aioli. You can order Maldon oysters and good old-fashioned bread and butter. Veggies might be a tad disappointed to find only one main dish – artichoke with white beans and chard, on our visit – on the menu. The bar menu, which includes stuff like Margot’s famous mince on toast, is not to be sniffed at either.

To start, generous dollops of vibrantly green broad beans, goat’s curd and pea shoots on well-toasted sourdough – Somerset summer on a plate.

Duck liver pate with cornichons (an ideal combo) and sourdough was simple yet perfectly judged.

The main course of skate wing with capers and brown butter was well-cooked in a rich buttery sauce, with capers adding a tang of vinaigrette. A theme is emerging: this is no-nonsense, unpretentious food, expertly done.

A hint of anchovy added another dimension to the super crispy confit pork belly with chard, accompanied by skin-on chips and spring greens.

Ricotta ice cream and cherries dessert was understated and delicious.

Hazelnut and chocolate tart with cream – a decent homemade slice and not overly sweet (just how I like it) – came with fresh double cream though it was actually even better with the ricotta ice cream swiped from my partner’s plate!

There’s a good selection of craft beer, real ale and local ciders available as well as a cocktail menu and a short but considered wine list featuring the St John range. I had a lovely chilled glass of St John Macon Villages – highly recommend.

OUT & ABOUT

You’re in the Mendips, so the village has some wonderful countryside walks. Internationally acclaimed art gallery Hauser & Wirth Somerset is just three miles down the road in Bruton. National Trust Stourhead’s glorious world famous landscaped gardens are a 20-minute drive. Walk and then lunch or the other way around?

KID FRIENDLY?

They’ll plate up child-sized portions from the menu or rustle up a tomato pasta.

DOG FRIENDLY?

Your pooch can come with you into the pub but the bedrooms are out of bounds.

ACCESSIBILITY

The pub is fully accessible and has an accessible loo but you can only reach the bedrooms via stairs.

THE MUDDY VERDICT

Good for: Couples, friends, families with older children wanting a hearty, earthy, unpretentious, good food experience – every day of the week (unusually, it’s open on a Monday).

Not for: People who like their plates of food to come with bells and whistles. This is the very best produce, perfectly cooked and simply presented – no fancy foams or sauce swirls decorating the plate here. There isn’t much choice for veggies or vegans.

The damage: £117 for two – pretty good, given the quality of food. Starters £9-11, mains £18-23, desserts £7-9. The five ensuite rooms cost from £220 B&B.

The Three Horseshoes, Batcombe, Somerset BA3 6HE. 01749 326147. Open Monday to Sunday 12pm – 11pm.

All photos: Rick Foulsham

Review: The Three Horseshoes, Batcombe

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